Poor pics, but this is clearly black, not brown. I expect this is all the time it needs to sink in, so don't let it sit and get gummy. The guy in the youtube video wiped it on and then off merely a few seconds later. Like a twat I forgot 'before' pics, but just picture very dark rosewood which would have a hint of brown. I may do another coat, but I want to make sure it's permanent first. It was dry to the touch in 5-10 minutes max. This may help keep it from hardening on frets and inlays. So, I'd suggest doing 4-5 frets, then wiping. Mine didn't sink in as well as a bare board probably because of the minwax? It got gummy rather quickly. It was difficult to get it off the tiny inlays without hitting the outlying wood.Ī dab on a rag is best to apply since the 'patting on' technique all but eliminates running. Same with the frets, but since I have a thin metal guide (StewMac) to protect the board while shining/steel wooling frets, it wasn't as much a hassle as the piranha inlays were. The ink will harden in a matter of minutes on the inlays which requires some force to remove with wool. If you can avoid the inlays, or want to take the time to cover them with tape, I'd suggest it. Steel wool also removed it from frets and inlays. I taped my binding, but if some does seep it can be removed from lacquered binding with steel wool easily. My neck already had 5-6 coats of minwax ebony, so my results may've been influenced by that.īottom line: unlike the minwax which resulted in a very dark rosewood, this stuff is black. 2 ounce bottle $3.99 USD and 2 ounces will cover many dozens of necks.
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